Doug Mack in Heavy Table, with a genuinely thoughtful meditation on food culture.

“Dorilocos are a fundamentally rebellious food,” Daniela Galarza wrote in Eater a while back. “They’re unglamorous, the opposite of farm-to-table or artisanal or sustainable. They’re not healthy. They’re not traditional. (At least not yet.) But when I took that first bite, I realized something: They taste spectacular.”